In the last two weeks of the year, On Sandwiches will be featuring select posts from the archives that you may have missed. We hope that you can forgive us these reruns, as we are hard at work on new, ambitious projects. Today’s selection is the Cubana torta from Tortas Boos Voni, in the Crocker-Amazon neighborhood of San Francisco.

Simply put, this is the best torta I’ve ever had. It’s the size of a small house, well spiced, and perfectly balanced. It’s one thing to balance a ham and cheese, it’s another to balance a sandwich that includes milanesas beef and chicken, plus ham, hot dog, and a braised shredded chicken thigh. This came at the recommendation of a reader and took me far too long to get to, but isn’t that almost inevitable? There’s always another delicious sandwich waiting for you, around the corner, down the coast, two towns over. They’re all out there, just waiting. Do the best you can.