The Shorty – The Melt

shorty-themeltI was all set to complain about how this was a downright pitiful shortrib grilled cheese, a sorry offering when compared to the numerous examples available elsewhere. (Notably, the shortrib mac and cheese at Lemonade.) Short rib isn’t roast beef, its very presence is a signal of higher ambition. To put it in a grilled cheese is inherently indulgent. The Melt is one of those upscale joints, the kind of place that thinks the only problem with fast food is that the menu design is lacking. I understand the impulse, but consider this, from The Melt’s promotional materials: “this fast casual eatery combines chef inspired, all natural, wholesome food with innovative online ordering technology in an eco friendly environment.” Chef inspired, all natural, wholesome food is all well and good, but is it really asking so much that there be enough of it?


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