I didn’t make it to the Burger Bar on my last trip to Las Vegas, so I was unable to commune with the divine number that is The Rossini. I did find myself in Paris Casino, though, and under the faux Parisian sky sits a faux cafe. There I found the burger et foie gras, a combination of angus beef, caramelized apples and, naturally, foie gras. If I couldn’t make it to The Rossini, this would have to do.

Asking it to compare to a sandwich I so treasure isn’t exactly fair, I know, and it was clear within a bite that this is no Rossini. But evaluated on its own merits, it was really quite good. I like foie gras a lot, ethical concerns noted and dismissed in the name of flavor, and it brings a fatty richness that, when added to a juicy burger, tiptoes at the edge of too much. It’s walked back by the tart sweetness of the apples and the sweet tartness of the gastrique, leaving the whole thing rather well rounded and quite tasty. And what a relief that was. If you can’t eat the burger you love, friends, love the one you eat.