Bánh Mì (BBQ Pork) – Cam Hung, Reed Ave, Sunnyvale, CA

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The BBQ Pork banh mi from Cam Hung in Sunnyvale, CA

Bánh mì is Vietnamese for “sandwich,” more or less.  There are scads of different varieties, all of which have their own name I would doubtlessly butcher in trying to pronounce. This is a fairly small problem, though, as the vast majority of Vietnamese sandwich shops are kind enough to display names in English as well as Vietnamese. The problem is that the categories the sandwiches are slotted into are too wide. Bánh mì thịt nướng is my preferred sandwich, the one featured at the top as The Finest Sandwich, and the one I am forever searching for. But that gets translated most frequently as BBQ Pork or Grilled Pork, and within those categories there are numerous variations in both recipe and cut of meat. I’m very rarely disappointed, but excepting The Finest Sandwich, I never find quite what I’m looking for.

And that’s how it was at Cam Hung. This was a tasty sandwich, don’t get me wrong, but the thin slices of pork were a far cry from the substantial, chewy pieces I had hoped for. The roll could have been a bit crustier though, but that’s as far as my complaining can go. This was a fine sandwich, with the wonderful flavor I so love. The marinade brings a savory base, with layers of garlic and fish sauce, in between which plays a distinct sweetness. A healthy portion of jalapeño on top covers the heat nicely, and carrots and daikon radish brought a nice contrast to the soft pork.  Inherent uncertainty aside, ordering a pork  bánh mì rarely goes wrong, and this time was no exception.

Avocado, Lettuce, and Tomato — Made at Home

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Avocado, lettuce and tomato on sourdough, sliced in half.

Inspired by a sandwich I had a short time ago, I set about making a light and healthy — but still hearty — sandwich. A couple of fine avocados, some tomato and red-leaf lettuce, a drizzle of oil, and salt and pepper to taste. A bit of a different spin on the classic BLT, which on California menus all too often becomes the ubiquitous BLAT. I feared that bacon may have been missed in the creation, but I am pleased to report that the end result was a fine sandwich. The San Luis Sourdough, lightly toasted, was the perfect bread for the job. As a first attempt, it was a bit light on the salt and pepper, and romaine would be preferred over the red-leaf, but this is highly recommended as a quick and light sandwich.

Eggs & Bacon on a Bialy – Top Grill & Deli, Bayside, NY

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2 eggs and bacon on a bialy

Some time ago I featured the humble two eggs & bacon on a roll, the standard of New York breakfast sandwiches. In that review I mentioned that there was something distinctly New York about that sandwich to me, in that hackneyed oh-they-don’t-make-it-properly-here-not-like-at-home sort of way. Well, my friends, I’m going to return to that shameful stance again, because two eggs & bacon on a bialy feels even more distinctly New York than the standard roll. Cousin to the bagel, a bialy skips the boiling and goes straight to the baking, and simple has a dip where the bagel has a hole. Fill the dip with diced onion, garlic and poppy seeds and you have a wonderful base for a sandwich. They’re not solely confined to New York, but it seems like finding them elsewhere is like something of a snipe hunt, a quest from bagel store to bakery that has thus far been fruitless for yours truly. But, I suppose, that makes the times I find myself in the right territory all the more worthwhile. That’s how it was with this sandwich, a delicious, salty, chewy, and perfect way to start the day.

Garlic Chicken Press Sandwich – Tanya’s Lunchbox, Glendale Ave., Glendale, CA

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It's pretty unexceptional.Tanya’s Lunchbox is a new, unassuming little storefront, touting itself on its “kebabs, falafel, sandwiches, and salads.” I can’t speak to the other three options, but the sandwich I selected left me underwhelmed.

Granted, their sandwich selection was less than half a dozen options, nothing dazzling or avant-garde, which is perfectly acceptable if you’re starting something up and not attempting to put on any airs. “Don’t reach beyond your means” is a fine lesson for any new business. Certainly they cannot be faulted for this. I asked for a recommendation, and the attendant behind the counter suggested the Garlic Chicken pressed sandwich. The sandwich is chicken, lettuce, tomato, and garlic spread on a pressed, grilled roll.

The sandwich was fine, but its shortcoming was its blandness, its ordinariness. Let this not be confused with my earlier comment about putting on airs. There is a great difference between flaunting a fancy-pants sandwich that you can’t back up or doesn’t appeal to the average person, and presenting a humdrum, bland, dry sandwich that could be improved with minimal effort. The “garlic spread” was just that: garlic paste, spread along the length of the sandwich. It turned the sandwich into a dry, grueling affair that honestly made one feel was “too garlicky,” a phrase seldom used in our circles. Some sort of garlic mayo, garlic aioli, or garlic pesto would have been preferred here, anything to give the sandwich some creaminess or break from the monotony. Similarly, a bit of red onion for snap, a hint of dijon mustard, a strip or two of red pepper…any number of slight changes that would make the sandwich come alive, but still not turn away any potential customer with a finicky palate.

The sandwich was not terrible, but it was boring. A sandwich should not be a chore, but a reward.

Chicken Parmigiana Hero – Shackleton’s, Hempstead Tpk, Franklin Square, NY

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Shackleton’s is a fairly standard pub, in an unspectacular part of Long Island. The menu features nothing that demands to be sampled, and while there’s a tasty beer or two, the selection is less than superb. And, as you might expect from that kind of establishment, the sandwich was, well, tasty enough. It was fried fresh, which is a pass/fail sort of quality, the sauce was fine. The only real downside is that the bread, billed as a garlic hero, doesn’t really carry much garlic flavor. It’s there, somewhere, but as someone who likes a heavy dose of garlic, I was disappointed. There wasn’t too much cheese. Like I said, it was tasty enough.

But let us consider this for a moment, the idea of good enough. This, I think, is one of the more wonderful things about sandwiches: most of them are pretty good. They aren’t hard to make, there are a substantial number of established classic forms you can work with, and in the end you’re more likely to get a good result than a bad one. It’s the best of all things. A hot dog is easy to make, but there isn’t much going on. A full meal can be delicious, but there’s a good amount of work involved. A sandwich, though, is a simple route to fine things. Thanks to the sandwich, I could enter a fairly ordinary bar on an ugly stretch of road and know that I was probably going to come away satisfied. “Most sandwiches are good” might seem like a tepid, pedestrian sort of insight, but think about it. I ate a sandwich today. I went in knowing that my life was probably going to be a bit better off for having eaten it, and I was right. I put it to you that that is no small thing, and that sandwiches can bring us these things is something for which we should be very grateful.

Odies Hoagie – Sunset Deli, Sunset Blvd, West Hollywood, CA

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A picture-perfect deli-sliced ham sandwich. Three types of ham piled high, bacon, provolone and accoutrement on a white roll. A pickle spear supports the composition.

In recent weeks I have encountered some less-than-ideal sandwich offerings. This week, I’m happy to bring you a different sort of tale.

On an inordinately rainy Los Angeles evening, I set out for a music venue, with hopes I may find a sandwich establishment before the beginning of the concert. The streets of West Hollywood were flooded, and roads closed due not only to the downpour, but also as a result of some sort of police manhunt. By the time I reached the block for the venue’s parking structure, I was only too happy to surrender my car to the valet and stop driving. I set out on foot in search of a place to eat. I headed two blocks west, but the heavy Boulevard left its businesses behind and became housing. I turned back around and headed east, hoping I wouldn’t have to resort to the upscale Japanese restaurant across the street. After another two blocks I spied, just up ahead, the familiar Boar’s Head logo in a storefront window. To my great delight, I had discovered Sunset Deli.

This was an oasis of a sandwich shop. Priding themselves on their Boar’s Head-only meats and cheeses, they offer a wide range of sandwiches for hungry roamers like myself. I selected the Odies Hoagie, a curiously-named sandwich that features bacon, Black Forest ham, honey maple ham, “deluxe” ham, mayo, spicy mustard, lettuce, tomato, and onion on a white French roll. The ham, as in the photo above, is truly “piled high” unlike many establishments that make the same boast. After the first bite, I was in heaven. The true appeal of deli meat sliced thin is that it feels like light fare. The different type of ham blended together to provide definite substance, yet didn’t feel like I was eating an enormous meal. I settled in with a great sandwich and a great book and took shelter from the storm.

Post-script: another item on the Sunset Deli menu caught my eye, and has captured the imagination of both myself and the esteemed founder of On Sandwiches. Stay tuned in the coming months for what may be the first On Sandwiches Special Event.

The Rip Taylor – Hamilton’s Tavern, 30th St, San Diego, CA

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The "Rip Taylor" grilled cheese sandwich at Hamilton's Tavern in San Deigo, CA

The menu at Hamilton’s boasts a fair number of grilled cheese sandwiches, a number of which look tasty. Only one, though, contains a note. Beneath the description of the Rip Taylor (slow roasted pulled chicken, pesto, red onion, tomato and provalone) is the following: “Don’t be surprised if you win $1.98 and get showered with confetti upon ordering.” Unable to resist, I ordered the Rip Taylor. Well, I received no monetary reward and the celebration of my order was minimal, but I did get a damn fine sandwich. The nicest thing here, and this is exceedingly rare for obvious reasons, was that the emphasis in this grilled cheese was on the chicken rather than the cheese. (If you click through the above photo, you can see the emphasis for yourself.) If a purist wanted to castigate this sandwich for betraying the spirit of a grilled cheese, I wouldn’t put up much of an argument. But I’m no great fan of cheese and so I was quite pleased with the sandwich. The chicken was tender and juicy, the red onion a welcome spice. It could have used more pesto, but anything lacking in this sandwich was covered by the bread. The sandwich came on rosemary sourdough, buttered and grilled. It was outstanding. Strong rosemary flavor and a strong buttery crunch to match. A grilled cheese sandwich can easily go wrong, but I’m happy to say that by underplaying the lead, Hamilton’s has pulled off an outstanding example of the genre.

BBQ Chicken – Bellissimo Cafe, Colorado Blvd., Los Angeles

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Just a sad, sad, sandwich.Occasionally, ordering a sandwich from an unorthodox establishment provides a lovely surprise. Unfortunately, the “lovely surprise” is the exception rather than the rule. Cafe Bellissimo is a brand-new establishment in the Eagle Rock neighborhood of Los Angeles; a curious amalgamation of “light Italian fare” and an array of salads, with a prominent pastry counter on display. I ducked into this “cafe” to see whether they had sandwiches on offer, and indeed they did. Of the few selections, I opted for the BBQ Chicken on the counter attendant’s advice.

When a sandwich calls itself a “BBQ Chicken” sandwich, there are two possibilities as to what you will receive: either a flame-grilled, honestly-barbecued piece of chicken on a hearty roll, or a chicken breast slathered in BBQ sauce obtained, one can only imagine, from a squeeze bottle. There is no middle ground. Since this cafe was a tiny storefront with no discernible kitchen, that should have been my first hint as to which option I would receive. I was instructed to choose my own bread and cheese, which in a non-deli, non-Subway environment, is the first clue that you’re about to have a less-than-spectacular sandwich. My fears were realized when I unwrapped the sandwich. The bread seemed slightly stale. The chicken was indeed bathed in a substandard BBQ sauce. The tomato was unyielding, but not as tough as the chicken, which had the texture of meat that has been pre-cooked and microwaved back to a reasonable temperature.

The Bellissimo Cafe has an extremely friendly staff and wonderful pastries, and I assume their bread and butter (as it were) is with their Italian fare and salads. Unfortunately, their sandwich selection is lacking on many levels. If they insist on offering sandwiches (as it appears they feel compelled to do so), they should play to their strengths and acknowledge their weaknesses. Just because your establishment can serve sandwiches does not mean that it necessarily should.

Chorizo & Refried Black Beans – Made at Home

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A chorizo and refried black beans sandwich, made at home.

I’ve had a can of refried black beans in my cupboard for some time now, and as I do with a great many food stuffs I periodically considered how they might best fit into a sandwich. The fine people at Scanwiches posted a particularly choice sandwich some time back, with black beans prominently featured. I wanted to take a crack at the idea, but wasn’t quite sure how to go about it. Finding a substantial piece of chorizo in the market one day proved to be enough to see my idea through. Refried beans may not be pretty, but black beans are the finest of all beans. Combine them with some sausage, I reasoned, would be a real hit. I brought along red onion and red bell pepper for a bit of snap, and a few thin slices of Oaxaca cheese finished things off.

I’m pleased to say I wasn’t wrong, though as you can see by the above my execution could have used a little work. The sandwiches were a little messy, with refried beans coming out of the side at points, and a red onion or two escaping here and there. The sandwich did pass the final test for messy vs. too messy, though. I was able to put the sandwich down for a minute, then easily pick it back up and resume eating. If something can’t survive a minute’s rest or a shift of the hands, it’s time to reevaluate the sandwich. But this did just fine, and despite the sloppiness was pretty tasty. The chorizo, pan seared then poached in a bit of wine, was spicy, full of delicious fatty juices. The black beans brought an earthy note to things, the bell peppers sweetness and the red onion a bit of bite. The cheese wasn’t lost, but it was definitely playing in the background. That’s why I like Oaxaca cheese. It’s light, unwilling and unable to take over the rest of a sandwich. There are some things I might do differently next time. A thicker roll could be hollowed out a bit, giving the beans a distinct position to hold. The red onion could stand to be sautéed, taking the bite down just a touch. But even without those changed, I was pretty pleased with how this came out. It was a fine sandwich I can recommended to you without reservations.

Steak Sandwich – Jerry’s Mexican Grill, Eagle Rock Blvd, Los Angeles

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A run-of-the-mill steak sandwich on a flat, oval, slightly-charred roll.

Occasionally, one gets what they bargained for. I ducked into Jerry’s Mexican Grill one afternoon in search of a quick torta. “Quick” being the operative word here, as the sandwich took an inordinate amount of time to prepare. I stood awkwardly in the deserted restaurant, certain that whatever lay in store for me, it would not reach the sublime heights of the finest of tortas, but hoped it would at least hit the spot.

The sandwich I was given was an allotment of beef strips, no more than a half-dozen scatted pieces of diced tomato, a leaf or two of lettuce, and a thin, white, tasteless spread that I can only assume to be mayonnaise. Since neither the Jerry’s menu posted in the shop nor the one on their website offers any clues beyond “STEAK SANDWICH” I shall have to leave the matter there for the time being. At least the attempt at a complete sandwich was made, which is more than can be said in certain cases.

The steak was shoe-leather tough, stringy and elastic. The accoutrement barely present. The one saving grace of the sandwich was the charred bread. I have long been a fan of a roll plopped onto a grill for any significant amount of time, as it adds a fine note to any appropriate sandwich. Unfortunately, it was wasted here. The steak sandwich is a dicey proposition: in certain cases, like the transcendent Los Reyes de la Torta, or with a local sandwich which I shall feature in the coming months, steak works well in sandwich form. More often than not, however, you are left tugging at a rubbery bit of meat like something out of a Saturday morning cartoon. Sadly, the gamble is rarely worth the reward.